‘No guts, no glory’: A confident voice for classical music in Istanbul

There's a quirky design feature to the Borusan Kocabıyık Foundation's HQ. I refer not to the open concrete walls, upon which are painted Cocteau-like birds and exquisite dancing butterflies, nor the small rooftop platform – a perfect spot to watch swallows dance and dive into expansive blue skies. No, it's the white pillars, angled in 'v' shapes – sometimes inverted – that provide an intriguing architectural talking point. They surround the Borusan Music House below, a venue that hosts chamber music and jazz, and frame the meeting room where I'm sitting with members of the Borusan Istanbul Philharmonic Orchestra (BIPO). The slim cylindrical accents are an homage to the pipes that gave birth to Istanbul's cultural cornerstone. In 1999, Borusan Holding – a multi-national industrial group manufacturing pipes in various locations, including the US, and the leading Turkish distributor of BMW, Land Rover and Caterpillar – turned its existing Borusan Chamber Orchestra into a large-scale ensemble. The BIPO, as it became, now runs a busy season and performs around the world.

Angled columns in the Borusan Foundation's HQ pay tribute to Borusna Holdings's industry roots

'The majority of the musicians are Turkish, and the core group remains the same,’ explains Aydın Dorsay, director of Borusan Sanat, Borusan Holding’s arts arm and the ‘driving force’ behind BIPO. ‘Western classical music is still relatively new here, so there are limited resources.'

In addition to Borusan Music House (built in 2010), for symphonic performances the BIPO performs on the Turkcell Stage at Zorlu PSM Performing Arts Centre in the central Istanbul neighbourhood of Zincirlikuyu, Turkey's largest performing arts centre. The BIPO is generally the only classical offering at the retail complex-based theatre, and has been able to develop a loyal following. Ahmed Adnan Saygun's Suite for Orchestra opens with a plangent cor anglais and gentle timpani roll, evoking a middle eastern flavour within the European format. Saygun (1907-1991) was a Turkish composer, who, along with contemporary composers like Fazıl Say, bridges stylistic divides. Such crossover is familiar in Istanbul, a city that is informally split into the 'Asian' and 'European' sides, separated by the Bosphorus strait.

BIPO artistic director and principal conductor Carlo Tenan is keen to feature Turkisyh pieces in each BIPO programme

'It's important to include the Turkish pieces,' says conductor Carlo Tenan, who has been artistic director and principal conductor of the BIPO since 2023. 'We try to include one with every programme. For me, Saygun's piece connects with Mahler [Symphony No 4, which was featured in the same concert], you can see the same folk elements – and their musical translation – in both works.' The programme also included Mendelssohn's Italian Symphony. Here we were, enjoying music by a German composer, in appreciation of Italy, performed by a Turkish orchestra. The hall was nicely filled, in part thanks to BIPO's subscription programme, with a fixed fee and tickets to the whole season. 'There's also a youth subscription,' explains Dorsay, 'where under 26s can get a fifty per cent discount.'

The city is also home to the Istanbul State Symphony Orchestra. The benefits of state versus private ownership vary depending on how you adjust your viewfinder. In the UK, discussion about key state assets – the NHS and the BBC – is emotionally charged. In Istanbul, the conversation is very matter of fact; there is a level of transparency when I ask about numbers. 'Borusan gives the foundation six million dollars a year,' says Dorsay. 'As an orchestra, we use around three and a half million. That covers venues, personnel, everything. The rest is divided between the Borusan Contemporary [the foundation's support for visual art] and education projects.' These include scholarships, aimed at developing home-grown talent. In exchange for the support, some musicians are expected to play with the orchestra. There are also projects for younger students, such as the support BIPO provided after the 2022 earthquake.

The Borusan Music House hosts evenings of chamber music and jazz

There are artistic benefits to this model: 'A private orchestra is more flexible,' says Tenan, who is also music director of the Wunderkammer Orchestra, and is active as a composer. 'The level can be higher than some state ensembles. We have regular auditions to maintain a certain quality.' He suggests, politely, that this creates a more dynamic approach, rather than an ensemble where a job is guaranteed for 25 years.

The quality of BIPO performances has been noted internationally (it is the resident orchestra of the International Leyla Gencer Voice Competition). When the ensemble made its Proms debut in 2014 as part of the 'global visitors' series (the first Turkish ensemble to feature at the Proms), its performance of Mozart's overture to Die Entführung aus dem Serail, Handel's ‘Arrival of the Queen of Sheba’ from Solomon and Gabriel Prokofiev's Violin Concerto No 1 ('1914') was warmly received. Now, there's welcome further opportunity to hear the BIPO closer to home, as the orchestra is about to embark on a UK tour (4-11 April) to mark its 25th anniversary. The group is joined by cellist Pablo Ferrández for Saint-Saëns's first concerto in a series of five concerts (Perth Concert Hall, 5 April; Usher Hall, Edinburgh, 6 April; Cadogan Hall, London, 8 April; G Live, Guildford, 9 April; Sheffield, 10 April). It's the first time a Turkish orchestra has toured Britain in 25 years – and significant preparation has gone into the operation. Tenan and the team are looking forward to bringing their signature programming style – the Turkish piece will be Nasreddin Hoca Humoresque by Ferit Tüzün – and high-energy playing to the regions.

Perili Köşka (a name that literally translates to ‘Haunted Mansion’) is now Borusan Holding's head office

Back in Turkey, more people than ever can listen to the BIPO thanks to borusansanat.tv. 'We also broadcast via Borusan Klasik, which is the only classical music radio in Turkey,' says Dorsay. The chamber music roots of the BIPO have not been forgotten: the Borusan Quartet (Esen Kıvrak and Nilay Sancar, violins; Efdal Altun, viola; Poyraz Baltacıgil, cello) give regular recitals at the Süreyya Opera House in Istanbul. The quartet members also perform as soloists with BIPO.

'The most spectacular office space I've ever encountered'

Over at Perili Köşk, an historic building with a name that literally translates to ‘Haunted Mansion’ that is now Borusan Holding's head office, miniature workers toil in hexagonal boxes that comprise a hive-like structure. Ariya Vahyetti's Rabb sculpture (pictured left) is one of hundreds of pieces on show in the beautiful space. Recent additions include Doug Aitken's polished stainless steel structure Ascending Staircase, viewed alongside a solo exhibition in a dedicated gallery space. Many artworks incorporate software-based technologies and there is a large collection of light installations, like Airan Kang's 21 Books, an eye-catching display of colourful titles by the likes of Freud, Bob Dylan and Stephen King. Classical Music HQ notwithstanding, it's the most spectacular office space I've ever encountered – Borusan opens it up on weekends for guided tours.

There is an underlying motivational message to some of the pieces, such as Ruby Anemic's No guts, no glory, in Tracey Emin-style pink lettering that adorns some lucky workers' office wall. It's a message that's true of Borusan – and of the composers and musicians it champions.

BIPO's ninth album is released in March via Onyx. The ensemble's UK tour runs 4-11 April