Touring the United Arab Emirates: Have passport, will travel

The Middle East might have recently drawn the world’s attention thanks to various groups of men chasing a ball around patches of grass in Qatar – but the region as a whole has, in recent years, blossomed into a modern and innovative cultural hub.

As well as being one of the world’s most popular destinations for those in search of year-round sun, sand, and shopping, the United Arab Emirates (UAE) enjoys a rapidly growing classical music scene featuring both local and international talent.

The capital, Abu Dhabi, is home to several cultural and performance spaces, including the Etihad Arena, the National Theatre, and the Arts Center at New York University Abu Dhabi; while the Dubai Opera, opened in 2016 and boasting a 2,000-seat auditorium that can be configured for use as a concert hall, a theatre, or a conference and function space, regularly plays host to visiting musicians – the BBC Proms hosted a Dubai edition there in 2017 and 2019.

Mohammed Fairouz and Ihab Darwish are two leading composers to have established themselves both in UAE and abroad, while expatriate musicians in the UAE include genre-crossing Russian mezzo-soprano Yana Mann and British composer Joanna Marsh, who founded the annual ChoirFest Middle East.

The airports of Abu Dhabi and Dubai are two of the world’s busiest and best connected; the UAE is well served by the country’s flag carriers Etihad and Emirates, as well as by British Airways.

British passport-holders do not need a visa in advance of travelling to the UAE; a free visitor/tourist visa will be issued on arrival, valid for 40 days. Passports should be valid for at least six months after the date you intend to leave the country.

Mass public transport is limited to Dubai, however, the country’s road network is excellent, meaning that for a group the most convenient means of travel will be by coach.

The UAE has a dry desert climate, with winter temperatures in the range of 13–24C, and summer months can see highs of above 40C. Such extremes will, naturally, influence a group’s decision as when to visit the country, as much for the effects on participants as on instruments.

The currency in the UAE is the dirham (AED; £1 = 4.50 Dhs at time of writing); debit and credit cards are universally accepted in cities, but carrying cash is recommended if travelling in more remote areas. The cost of living is high, as almost all food and drink has to be imported: a cup of coffee costs around 25 Dhs (£5.50), a light lunch around 40 Dhs (£9), and a three-course meal around 200 Dhs (£45). Rules regarding the consumption of alcohol vary across the UAE: it’s generally permitted in licensed bars and restaurants but is forbidden in public.

The official language of the UAE is Arabic, but given the area’s history – as the Trucial States it was a British colony until 1971 – and the presence of a large expatriate community, English is widely spoken in major population centres; if you intend to visit other parts of the country, the services of an interpreter are advisable.

The UAE is a Muslim country, and so visitors should be mindful of the country’s laws and respectful of local customs; special care should be taken if visiting religious sites and in the holy month of Ramadan (in 2023 this will be between 22 March and 21 April). Visit the UK government’s advice page for more information.

As the place of music within Islam remains controversial according to some schools of thought, the UAE generally doesn’t permit performances in any places of worship, even churches. Thus, apart from the concert venues mentioned above, it may be necessary to contact local schools to arrange performances in their (usually excellent) facilities. This, perhaps more than anything, makes it essential to work with a reputable tour company, either one based in the UK or a local firm.